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Lost in Mongolia

 

Ulan Bator (Mongolia)

(phone area code is 1.

From outside Mongolia dial +9761)

 

 

The world’s coldest capital is a fascinating place to visit, even if looks at first sight like another Soviet-style city. Ulan Bator (population: 700,000) sits in a basin surrounded by four mountains, the southermost boundary of the great Siberian taiga. The city experiences great climatic extremes; the temperature ranges from -49ºC (-46ºF) in winter to 38ºC (93ºC) in summer. The average annual precipitation is only 236mm and there are on average 283 sunny days in the year. Ulan Bator is 1350 metres above sea level.

 

Among the industrial suburbs and concrete tower blocks there are vibrant splashes of colour in the temples and old palaces. The Mongolian people are charming and cheerful.

 

After the Communist Party came to power in 1921, the capital was renamed Ulan Bator, meaning “Red Hero”. With considerable help from the USSR, the city was redesigned. In the mid 1990s, the city experienced a private sector boom with new buildings springing up everywhere and shops and restaurants opening.

 

Mongolia once had 700 monasteries but virtually all were destroyed in the communist crackdown at the end of the 1930s. More than 14,000 monks were killed and tens of thousands forced to give up their vows. In the 1990s, some monasteries were allowed to reopen.

 

What to see

Sühbaatar Square

A mounted statue of Sühbaatar (the Mongolian Lenin) in heroic pose stands in the centre of this large square, opposite his mausoleum. His preserved body does not receive visitors but newlyweds queue up to have their photos taken at the foot of his statue.

 

Gandan Monastery

The original monastery on this site was built in 1785 but destroyed. The first group of new buildings here was put up in 1938 and as well as the main temple there are stupas, a library and accommodation for the monks.

 

Inside Gandan Monastery

 

Bogd Khan Palace and Museum

This is a wonderful old place, full of ghosts and rather like Beijing’s Forbidden City on a smaller scale. The Bogd Khan museum is beside the palace complex and exhibits include Bogd Khan’s throne, fur-lined robes and crown, and his luxurious ger.

 

Natural History Museum

Mongolia is well known for its dinosaur graveyards and some of the discoveries made in the country are on display here, including several fossilized nests of dinosaurs’ eggs.

 

 

Where to stay

Budget accommodation

  • Idre’s Guest House (329 137 – idre9@hotmail.com) at Khudaldaany gudamj 41. A bed in costs US$4. They also organize trips to the countryside and Gobi, visa extensions and train tickets.

  • Bold Guest House (323 498 – bold777@hotmail.com). They charge US$5 per person for dormitory accommodation.

  • Zaluuchuud Hotel (324 594) 27 Baga Toyruu Rd. They charge US$10 for a bed in a four-bedded room and US$32-45 for a double.

 

Mid-range and up-marked hotels

  • New Capital Hotel (458 235) on Enkhtaivany Ave charges US$30 for a single and US$40 for a double.

  • Tuushin Hotel (328 594 – www.ulaanbaatar.net/tuushinhotel), is conveniently located just off Sühbaatar Square. There are singles for US$40 and doubles for US$80-130.

  • Chinggis Khan Hotel (313 380) 8 Khukh Tengger Ave is the city’s smartest place to stay. A single room is US$80 and double for US$130-180.

 

Where to eat

  • The best hotel restaurants are in the Ulaanbaatar, Bayangol and Chinggis Khaan hotels.

  • The Della Cassa Italian restaurant on Enkhtaivan Ave is well worth a visit. Two main courses and drinks cost around US$10. You can also get a great pepper steak in the Cinggis Beer Club, on Sühbaatar St.

  • You can find Turkish food at the Ankara Doner restaurant on Khuvsgalchidyn Ave in the cinema building. A meal will cost around US$3.

 

Bogd Uul Reserve

 

Excursions from Ulan Bator

Ger encampments

Most groups of travellers go to Terelj, 80km from Ulan Bator. There are two types of accommodation here: gers and hotels. Zhuulchin offers trips to Terelj.

 

Bogd Uul Nature Reserve and Manzshir Monastery

This unique mountain region, directly south of Ulan Bator, was proclaimed a protected area in 1778 although conservation of Bogd Uul actually began in the 12th century.

The highest peak in Bogd Uul is Tsetsee Gun (2268m). It is possible to hike over the ridge to the ruins of the ancient Manzshir Monastery and the museum, to get an idea of the devastation caused in 1937.

 

The Gobi

The Gobi stretches for almost 4000km along the border of Mongolia and China. Only about 3% of the Gobi is true desert.

 

 

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