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Routes and costs
Route
Options
Travellers
crossing Siberia have a choice of three routes: the
TransSiberian, TransManchurian and TransMongolian.
- The
TransSiberian is the most expensive route as it crosses
the entire length of Siberia to the Pacific terminus at
Vladivostok.
- The
TransManchurian travels through most of Siberia before
turning south through Manchuria and ending in Beijing.
- The
TransMongolian also terminates in Beijing but tavels via
Mongolia which gives you the chance to stop off in Ulan Bator,
its capital. This is the route we made.
Costs
How much you
pay for a trip on the longest railway line depends on the level
of comfort you demand, the number of stops you wish to make
along the way and the amount of time you’re prepared to put into
getting hold of a budget ticket. Although the cheapest ticket
for rail travel from Moscow to Beijing or vice versa (and
purchased in these cities) currently cost arround US$200, this
price does not reflect what you’ll end up paying for your trip.
There are
several major costs to add on: getting to your departure point
and getting back at the end of your journey, accomodation in
Moscow and the rest of the cities, food, vodka, parties,
etc. ;-)
Depending in
what you are planning to do, allocate between US$2000-4000 for
the overall trip expenses!
Warning!
No regular
train service under the name of “Transsiberian Express” exists.
Instead, Russians and Chinese identify their trains by a number
(‘Train No. 19’, from Beijing to Moscow).
“Transsiberian”, “Transmongolian” and “Transmanchurian” are,
however, convenient terms for the routes across Siberia and
between Moscow and Beijing.
The service
which runs from Moscow to Vladivostok is train No 2, also known
as the “Rossiya”. Running from Vladivostok to Moscow it’s train
No 1. The services which run between Moscow and Beijing are
usually identified only by their numbers.
Hotel
costs
The price and
value of hotel rooms in Russia varies wildly: some hotels have a
dual-pricing system and charge foreigners more than Russians.
(Unfortunately this is also common in Museums and the like).
This increase
in hotels can be as much as three times the local price so what
may be excelent value if you could pay Russian prices becomes
absurdly bad value as far as you’re concerned. Although
‘foreigner’ prices are quoted in this book, do not be surprised
if they are not the same as what you are offered in the hotel.
You will almost certainly be offered the most expensive room
first: ask for something cheaper.
Moscow and
St. Petersburg are the only places with five-star hotels (US$350
or more a night) although there are a number of TransSiberian
cities which have good good four-star hotels, for example
Vladivostok.
Most visitors
stay in the former Intourist hotels. A room with attached
bathroom will cost US$50-100 for a single or US$70-120 for a
double. Independent and backpacker travellers go for the
cheapest hotels. A basic room with attached bathroom is US$10-25
for a single or US$20-30 for a double. Breakfast is sometimes
included in the price.
Guest-houses
and Homestay are also interesting options. It might cost about
US$20-35 a night including meals.
Breaking
your Journey
Most people
will want to break their journey and stop off along the way (it
is highly recommended!). This is a good idea not only because it
gives you a chance to get off the train, stretch your legs and,
most importantly, have a shower but also because some of the
places you pass through are well worth exploring; you won’t
learn much about life in Siberia by looking through a train
window.
If booking
through an agency, plan your stops carefully; it’s too late to
decide to break your journey once you have started on your trip.
If you travel independently, however, you can just buy train
tickets as you go along and stop off whenever and wherever you
like.
If your trip
starts in Moscow it’s usually necessary to spend one night
there, but you’d need several days to see just the main sights.
A side-trip to St Petersburg is highly recommended. At the other
end of the rails, it’s worth spending several days in Beijing.
Along the
routes, Irkutsk and Ulan Bator are the most popular places to
stop off at. Irkutsk is the eastern capital of Siberia and 64km
from Lake Baikal, the world’s deepest freshwater lake. Staying
at Listvyanka, right by the lake, is recommended (be aware of
the mosquitoes!) as is a visit to Ulan Bator, the capital of
Mongolia. Ulan Ude is worth a stop for the Buddhist monastery
nearby. Khabarovsk is surprisingly pleasant and Yekaterinburg is
interesting. There’s also Novosibirsk, the huge capital of
Western Siberia, the pleasantly-situated city of Krasnoyarsk and
Vladivostok, the eastern railway terminus.
When to go
Russian
cities look best and feel most “Russian” under a layer of snow.
If, however, you want to spend time in any Siberian city, you’ll
probably find it more enjoyable to go in the late spring, summer
or autumn, where there is more to do.
In Siberia,
the heaviest snowfalls and coldest temperatures (as low as –
40ºC in Irkutsk and some of the other towns the train passes
through) occur in December and January. From late January to
early April the weather is generally cold and clear. Spring
comes late and then the warmest months are July and August, when
it is warm enough for a swim in Lake Baikal.
In Moscow the
average temperature is 17ºC (63ºF) in summer and – 9ºC (+16ºF)
during winter.
Tourist
season
The tourist
season rus from May to the end of September reaching its peak
between mid-July and early September. In the low season, between
October and April, some companies offer discounts on tours;
you’ll also find it much easier to get a booking for the train
at short notice at this time.
Group
tours or independent travel?
Group
tours
Many visitors
to Russia travel in organized groups. Going with a tour group
takes all the hassle out of travelling. Most tours are
accompanied by an English-speaking guide from the moment you
arrive in Russia right up until you leave the country. Being
part of a group also means that because everything is
prearranged, there isn’t much room for doing your own thing.
Check
here for tour companies.
Semi-independent travel
This is
currently the most popular way for foreigners to travel on the
Trans-Siberian: using a specialist agency who makes the
accommodation and train bookings, thereby providing visa support
which enables you to get a Russian tourist visa. Once you are in
Russia, you’re usually on your own. Some agencies also offer
guides who meet you and help you organize your time in that
city. . Check
here for tour companies and locally-based organizations.
Fully
independent travel
These days,
getting a tourist visa for Russia is no longer difficult. You
must obtain confirmation of hotel booking in Russia with a
registered tourist company to present with your visa
application. There are various hotels/organizations that can do
this for you. Check the list
here.
Although few
Russians outside the largest cities speak English and tourist
infrastructure is limited, this shouldn’t put you off. Russians
are very friendly and you can easily learn some basic Russian to
h elp communication. Travelling independently is not difficult
and is the best way to get a true insight into the “real” Russia
and its people.
After all,
this is exactly what we did! ;-)
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