Irkutsk

(phone area code is 3952.

From outside Russia dial +73952)

If you make only one stop on the Transsiberian, it should be Irkutsk. In this city, you’ll find the people rather more friendly and relaxed than the people in European Russia. Along many of the streets you can still see the cosy-looking log cabins which are typical of the Siberian style of domestic architecture.

64km from Irkutsk is Lake Baikal, set amongst some of the world’s most beautiful countryside.

Irkutsk, a city of 600,000 inhabitants is still one of the largest suppliers of furs to the world markets, although engineering is now the main industry.

What to see

Cathedrals and War Memorial

In Irkutsk in 1900 there were two cathedrals: the splendid Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan, bigger than Kazan Cathedral in St Petersburg, was damaged during the Civil War. It was demolished and now the Central Government Headquarters stands in its place, opposite the WWII Memorial; the second cathedral, the Cathedral of the Epiphany (1724) is across the road.

Church of Our Saviour

This church contains the Museum of Local Studies. There are some interesting frescoes on the exterior.

Polish Catholic Church

Opposite the Church of Our Saviour is a church with a tall steeple, the Catholic Church. It is the only neo-Gothic church in Siberia and was build in 1883 by exiled Poles.

Where to stay

• American House (telf 432 689) ul Ostrovsky 19, a frienly place where little english is spoken. Bed and breakfast costs US$15-20.

• Hotel Agat (telf 297 325) ul 5 Armi, 12 which charges US$8/15 for singles/doubles.

• Hotel Kech (telf 335 972) ul Karla Marxa 34, which is very basic but clean and friendly, with singles for US$7. Bathrooms in both places are shared.

• Hotel Arena (telf 344 642), ul Zhelyabova 8a. It looks much better inside than out; rooms cost US$15-28 for a single.

• Hotel Angara (telf 293 616) ul Sukhe-Batora 7 is always busy and also recommended. Single rooms with attached shower are US$15-40 and doubles US$28-50.

Where to eat

• Café Karlson, ul Lenina is decorated in a fairy-tale style and is quite and friendly.

• There’s a Pizzeria at ul Karla Marxa 45.

• Café Vernisazh, ul Uritskogo 16, serves tasty Russian food. Count on around $10 for a meal.

• Restaurant Rus in Hotel Rus (telf 277 315) ul Sverdlova 19. A 3-course meal costs US$10-15.

• Food in the restaurant in the Hotel Angara is good and cheap.

Lake Baikal

The world deepest lake

64km (40miles) south of Irktusk, Lake Baikal is 1637 metres (5371 feet) deep and is estimated to contain roughly 20% of the world’s freshwater supplies. If all the rest of the world’s drinking water ran out tomorrow, Lake Baikal could supply the entire pupulation of the planet for the next 40 years.

Known as the ‘Blue Eye of Siberia’ it is also the world’s oldest lake, formet almost 50 million years ago. It is among the largest lakes on the planet, being about 400 miles long and beween 20 and 40 miles wide. The water is incredibly clear and safe to drink.

Getting to Lake Baikal

The two ways of getting from Irkutsk to Lake Baikal are by boat or by bus. Buses depart from Irkutsk’s long-distance bus station on ul Oktyabrskoi Revolutsii. The trip takes about 90 minutes. The bus will stop on request virtually anywhere with major stops at the Open Air Museum, Baikal Ecological Museum, Listvyanka village and Lisvyanka pier.

Where to stay

In Listvyanka, near the Baikal Ecological Museum is the the Hotel Baikal Intourist (3952 290 391) where most tours stop for lunch. Rooms are priced at US$110/133 for a single/double.

Where to eat

The restaurant in Hotel Baikal-Intourist is almost the only chance, but is at the same time very good.

Click here to see our Irkutsk - Baikal's pic gallery!

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